In more than 20 years of growing houseplants, I have resisted the urge to grow Amaryllis. I’m not sure why really. It’s so rare to have a plant that blooms at Christmas time and Amaryllis flowers are showy and beautiful. I think maybe I’ve resisted because I feel a sort of pressure to make Christmas time an “experience” for my family, if you know what I mean. That takes up the majority of my thoughts, time and efforts in the last months of each year and I usually put myself and my own needs last. For some reason though, this year when I saw beautiful Amaryllis bulbs being sold in kits, I decided to treat myself. It was sooooo worth it!
Besides being bright colored and huge, Amaryllis blooms are also incredibly long lasting!
They are about as low maintenance as any plant I’ve grown indoors which is fantastic. My plant bloomed two different times, once before Christmas and once after, but it didn’t bother me at all. The blooms were huge and beautiful and cheered me up every time I entered the room.
Then, my step-mom gave me another Amaryllis on Christmas day. She wanted me to grow it out and give it to my Bubba (Babicka means “Grandma” in Czech) when it was in bloom. So I grew it out and a few weeks later, it had two huge bloom spikes ready to open up. I took it over to my Bubba’s house, but she asked me to keep it since she felt like she would kill it. Long story short (too late…) I ended up enjoying two different Amaryllis plants this winter and I’m hooked.
The Amaryllis added beautiful color to my Monstera and Philodendron plants in this window.
Now I’m looking to add a few new Amaryllis to my collection. Any suggestions? What are your favorite Amaryllis varieties? Feel free to comment on this post if you have plant suggestions for me.
Planty friends – Feel free to use these links to the products that I use for my houseplants. I receive a small percentage of any sales through these links, so feel free not to use them if that bothers you.
Full disclosure – the last four product links will be much cheaper if you can find them in your local garden center. I’ve put them here so that you can see what they are called and what they look like, but I’d advise that you buy from these links only as a last resort.
Way back in the day, when I was studying for my Master Gardener, I came across photos of a Paperbark Maple. It quickly became an object of obsession for me. I adore plants in the landscape that have interest in all four seasons because I live in Zone 6(a) Ohio where we actually enjoy four distinct seasons. So I make a point to heavily plant my landscape with trees and plants that can offer this quality. And the Paperbark Maple definitely ticks all the boxes.
Currently, I can only show you one season of interest…winter. My tree was planted on December 9, 2022 and so I have yet to photograph the spring blooms, the samara and deep green triple leaflets in the summer or the fantastic red fall color. But one of the loveliest attributes of this tree is its bark. The bark is a deep brown with hints of cinnamon coloring. The bark defoliates (or peels) in lovely curls and instead of shedding the bark onto your lawn, this bark tends to be persistent. So you get the quality of peeling bark like a River Birch, but without the mess that Birches can leave on the ground below. So the beautiful defoliating bark is our winter interest. Let me show you…
The Paperbark Maple has bark of a deep brown with cinnamon accents.The defoliating bark peels into pretty curls and persist on the trunk.
The Paperbark Maple tends to be a slow grower, so if you plan to plant one I’d suggest paying extra for a larger (more mature) tree. It’ll be worth it if you want instant impact in your landscape.
I will be posting blogs with photos as the seasons come, so stand by…
If you are interested in planting a Paperbark Maple and have questions, comment them below. I’ll try to help in any way I can. I also strongly suggest doing your due diligence and researching the needs and statistics of this tree before purchasing and planting. I’ve included links below to products that I use for my young trees if you are curious.
Planty friends – Feel free to use these links to the products that I personally use for my trees. I receive a small percentage of any sales through these links, so feel free not to use them if that bothers you.
It’s true that my favorite plants can change daily, but I thought it would be fun to share my current favorites with you.
#5 – Network Calathea (Goeppertia kegeljanii (formerly Calathea musaica)) – I have killed one or two of these plants in the past, but this third one is thriving in my care. I’m so glad I didn’t give up on this plant just because I’ve killed a few in the past. The beautifully patterned leaves make this plant perfect on its own or paired with other foliage plants.
My Calathea musaica is a fantastic grower.
#4 – Fish Tail Hoya / Mermaid Hoya (Hoya polyneura) – Now that I think about it, I’ve killed one of these before too. Hmmm. Maybe this favorites lists has a theme…
The leaves of H. polyneura look just like a mermaid’s tail as you can see (photo below). It’s a lovely plant, I never tire of looking at it. It grows fairly quickly and blooms generously too. The blooms look a bit like large juicy candies. Which is fun.
Hoya polyneura lives in this West facing (bathroom) window with my variegated String of Hearts.
#3 – Philodendron gigas – I haven’t had a chance to grow my plant into a large specimen plant yet, but it isn’t hard to see its potential for greatness. The leaves actually shine. I’m gaga for this plant.
Philodendron gigas has velvety, shimmery leaves.
#2 – Hoya nicholsoniae ‘New Guinea Ghost’ – This Hoya is one of my favorite plants. Essentially, it’s a regular Hoya nicholsoniae that has a silvery cuticle (top layer of the leaf) which is what gives it that minty silver coloring. Then, to add to all the beauty, the leaves can sun stress which adds some pink/purple undertones to the mix.
Hoya ‘New Guinea Ghost’ is a beauty.
#1 – Albo Monstera (Monstera borsigiana ‘Albo Variegata’) – Really, are there any words necessary? This Monstera has everything going for it; heart shaped leaves, leaf fenestrations, and then there’s the gorgeous bright white patches of variegation. It’s completely swoon worthy. No wonder it’s still one of the most sought after houseplants on the market. I feel like everyone should own one of these.
Isn’t she gorgeous??? I often find myself taking a moment to just stop and take in her beauty.
What are your current favorite houseplants? I’d love to know, so please share your favorites in the comments below.
Planty friends – Feel free to use these links to the products that I use for my own houseplants. I receive a small percentage of any sales through these links, so feel free not to use them if that bothers you.
Full disclosure – the last four product links will be much cheaper if you can find them in your local garden center. I’ve put them here so that you can see what they are called and what they look like, but I’d advise that you buy from these links only as a last resort.
Hello my friends and happy New Year! My sister showed up at my house a couple days ago with this poor awkward Aloe plant and asked for my help.
This giant Aloe started out as a tiny baby plant from Walmart.
My mom originally purchased this Aloe in a tiny 3″ pot at Walmart. I don’t remember the date, but I was there the day that she brought it home. I know it was pre-2017 because she moved [from the house that she brought it home to] in August of 2017. After she moved, it lived for about 5 years in a South facing window that was shaded by a huge Maple tree and it really loved its life in that location. But then in September of 2022, my mom moved again and my sister, Caitlin, took the plant. Her house is an old one with tricky heating. Basically, it’s scorching heat on the first floor and a frozen ice land on the second floor. Neither is ideal for an Aloe, but Caitlin tried keeping it on the first floor in her dining room filled with South facing windows. But it just didn’t work. It lost leaves and etiolated and grew little Aloe pups until it looked more like a bonsai tree than an Aloe plant. So here we are.
The plant looked like it had been chasing the sun, it had etiolated drastically over one side of its planter. (An etiolated plant is one that has “stretched out” due to a lack of appropriate light.) The lowest leaves of the Aloe are what anchored it down in its pot, so as it began shedding its lower leaves and then stretching its new upper growth to reach the sun, the plant toppled over and continued growing sideways.
My approach was a simple one. I started by beheading the large mother plant and also removing all dead, dying and broken leaves from it. I thought I’d have to leave it out overnight to allow the cut to callous over, but that wasn’t at all necessary. The stem of this Aloe was firm and relatively dry even right after being cut.
After beheading the mother plant, I was able to reach into the potting mix to separate each of the offshoot plants. There were nine Aloe pups total and all of them were a nice size. Two of the baby plants were well rooted, but the other seven baby plants needed to be rooted. Not to worry, Aloe vera plants propagate in water very easily. So I planted the two rooted pups in potting mix. I got a couple of quart sized Mason jars out to root the other seven Aloe pups.
These Aloe babies will have nice roots in no time.
I was able to repot the mama Aloe in its original planter. I kept the level of the potting mix quite low since I needed the edges of the pot to help hold the plant in an upright position. Since the plant has no roots yet, the smaller amount of potting mix will make no difference at all.
If you are interested in the potting mix I used, let me know in the comments. I can write that recipe in another blog. I did also want to mention that I used mealworm frass as an additive since I want to encourage root growth. It’s excellent for that purpose.
Mama Aloe plant plus nine babies that have been separated.
Now it’s time to just wait for all the plants to send out some roots. Oh, and I also have to find homes for all of these plants as well (fingers crossed on that one).
Thanks for reading and I wish you all a Happy New Year!
Planty friends – Feel free to use these links to the products that I use for my own houseplants. I receive a small percentage of any sales through these links, so feel free not to use them if that bothers you.
Full disclosure – the last four product links will be much cheaper if you can find them in your local garden center. I’ve put them here so that you can see what they are called and what they look like, but I’d advise that you buy from these links only as a last resort.
It was a hot August for most of us, and despite the blazing temperatures, we still had some beautiful blooms throughout the month. I have chosen plants that can perform through the heat and drought because I like to enjoy blooms throughout the growing season. Allium, Agastache, Lupines, Hibiscus, Rudbeckia, Passiflora, Echinacea, Buddleia and Lavender are all looking lovely and are covered in pollinators. I took some photos, so I thought I’d share them with you.
A Tiger Swallowtail on Echinacea purpurea.
We currently have two different types of Echinacea growing, but I’d like to plant many more. The one pictured above is probably the most common kind of Coneflower used in landscaping, Echinacea purpurea.
Lupines, Allium & Agastache in my all purple flowerbed.
Yes, I have a corner flowerbed that is entirely dedicated to purple flowers. In the photo above, you’ll see Lupines in the front, Alliums on the left and lovely variegated Agastache on the right.
Rudbeckia fulgida
Black-eyed Susans always remind me that Fall is right around the corner. We have two different varieties of Rudbeckia growing here; Rudbeckia fulgida (pictured above) and Rudbeckia ‘Prairie Sun’; and certainly hope to plant more in the future.
Passiflora incarnata ‘Maypop’
Passion flower is one of the most beautiful flowers on our planet, in my humble opinion. They are so different from other flowers, it always amazes me that they will happily grow in my garden.
Hibiscus moscheutos
Swamp Rose Mallow also called Hardy Hibiscus is perfect for our boggy property. We picked the spots in our yard that hold water for the longest period, and planted Hibiscus plants right there. We currently have four different varieties of Hibiscus; a green leaf variety with pink flowers (pictured above), a green leaf variety with red flowers, a red leaf variety with pink flowers (Proven Winners Hibiscus moscheutos ‘Edge of Night’), and a red leaf variety with magenta flowers (Proven Winners Hibiscus moscheutos ‘Evening Rose’) (pictured below).
Hibiscus moscheutos ‘Evening Rose’ – notice the puddle of water in which it is planted.
August in the garden has looked so wonderful, I’m hopeful that September will be just as glorious. What’s blooming in your garden? Comment below with your current blooms, I love hearing about other people’s flower gardens.
If this article was interesting or helpful to you, make sure to follow our blog. Simply head to the bottom of the Home page of this website, click the Subscribe button and type in your email address. Sharing and liking these articles is also very helpful to us. Thanks for reading!
Mercy, peace and love be multiplied to you.
Link to my Etsy shop, Matilda and Clementine where I sell many different collector houseplants.
Planty friends – Feel free to use these links to the products that I use for my houseplants. I receive a small percentage of any sales through these links, so feel free not to use them if that bothers you.
Full disclosure – the last four product links will be much cheaper if you can find them in your local garden center. I’ve put them here so that you can see what they are called and what they look like, but I’d advise that you buy from these
If you have someone if your life who loves houseplants, this list of gift ideas is for you. I’ve included all items that I use almost daily for my own plants; I wouldn’t recommend things that I don’t own or use frequently. I ordered the gifts from least expensive to most expensive and I think I’ve given some good ideas at all price ranges. I’ve also included links for each gift so that you can see the item. The links may be affiliate links which means that I will earn (an embarrassingly small) percentage from any purchase made from the links. If you don’t like that idea, I understand; simply don’t purchase from the links. I hope you enjoy my list.
#10 – Stainless Steel Chopsticks – One of the tools I use almost daily for my houseplants are chopsticks. There are so many uses for chopsticks with my houseplants. I use chopsticks to keep the potting mix from compacting around the roots of my plants, which is an important part of keeping plants healthy and happy. I use them when I’m repotting my plants since they are perfect for arranging the roots gently in a pot. Another use for chopsticks is poking holes in potting mix when I am propagating plants. Their uses are endless.
#9 – Hygrometer – Also called a humidity meter, this little gadget can be immensely useful for houseplant parents. They will tell the current temperature and percentage of humidity in a room. Another helpful use for a humidity monitor is that they record the highest and lowest temperature and humidity readings from the past 24 hour period. This is an appropriate gift for beginners or experienced plant collectors. There is so much value in knowing the humidity reading in your home.
#8 – Acrylic Rainbows – When my plant collection started really growing, I realized that I wanted to introduce more color around my plants. So I started making these acrylic rainbows which bring a bright, happy pop of color next to my plants. Once I’d made a few, I was hooked and now I have them around many of my plants and I sell them in my Etsy shop.
I originally created acrylic rainbows to use under plant pots, but realized that they are much too pretty for that use.
#7 – Potting Mat – Repotting houseplants can be quite messy and a potting mat is a great way to minimize the mess. Most of the mats are waterproof, so whatever surface they are covering will be protected from moisture damage. When you are done repotting, simply fold the mat in half and you can easily tip the used potting mix, LECA or pon where ever you want it to go. The mat wipes clean easily and then folds up into a neat square and can be stored almost anywhere. They are really useful tools.
#6 – Watering Can – If you like the idea of a decorative but also useful houseplant tool, how about a watering can? These houseplant watering cans come in many different shapes, sizes and styles. And if you were wondering why a houseplant lover needs a watering can just for houseplants, let me help. Watering houseplants can be a tricky business since they are generally sitting near other objects, other plants and sometimes in difficult to reach places. An indoor plant watering can is usually small so that it can fit in tight spaces and will have a long spout to help reach plants that are hard to reach.
#5 – Mister – These delightful little plant misters serve dual purposes, providing mist for plants but also adding a delightful decorative element to a shelf. The one I have linked is the pretty silver one I use. But there are many different variations; some with colored glass, copper or brass. The prices are pretty reasonable too.
#4 – Bonsai Scissors – Even though I am not very talented at the art of bonsai, I very much enjoy using bonsai scissors for my plants. Our houseplants need pruning once they start putting on growth and many people enjoy propagating their plants as well. A good pair of bonsai scissors is invaluable for these tasks. I am also going to link a cheaper pair of scissors and also a longer pair of scissors for the hard to reach cuttings.
#3 – Felco 6 Hand Pruners – These pruners will be for those houseplant people that enjoy dabbling in plant propagation. Hand pruners aren’t necessary for propagating small or delicate plants. These pruners are for people who are cutting their Monsteras and mature Philodendrons; plants that have nice thick stems. You may ask, “Why can’t I use any brand of hand pruners to cut my houseplants?” The answer is simple, my friends. Once we have spent (sometimes lots) of money on plants and have grown them carefully for years, we shouldn’t risk damaging those plants with subpar hand pruners which will crush the stems. Felco pruners are far superior to any other pruners on the market. Take it from me (I used work in a vineyard where I had pruners in my hand literally all day) the Felco pruners are worth every penny.
#2 – Elechomes Humidifier – Keeping plants happy indoors usually means running a humidifier. There are hundreds of different brands and styles out there, but I have chosen this humidifier for several reasons. This humidifier is a top fill which is an absolute game changer. During the winter months, I have to refill my humidifiers often and the easy access of a top fill humidifier is invaluable. This particular model holds almost two gallons of water which helps reduce the number of times it has to be refilled. The top fill option also means that this humidifier is much easier to clean. Cleaning humidifiers is not my favorite activity and making it an easier task is very, very worthwhile.
#1 – Dyson Cordless Vacuum – A couple of years ago, my hubby and I bought this vacuum and it is one of the best things we’ve ever purchased. My whole family uses this vacuum daily all around the house. But since this blog is about houseplants, let me point out its usefulness in that capacity. Where there are plants, there is soil. Enough said. Actually, I use my Dyson more frequently to clean up underneath my blooming Hoya plants than anything else. They can really make a mess with the constant dropping of spent blooms. The Dyson has incredible suction power and is easily extendable to help reach up high or down low. It holds its charge for weeks (with daily use) and because it’s cordless, it can go anywhere. We’ve owned all the other small handheld vacuum options and none of them even come close. It’s completely worth the price, in my opinion.
I hope that you found some inspiration in this blog. Make sure to subscribe so you don’t miss any new blogs!
If you live in any of the Midwestern states or in Texas, you have probably heard of Oak Wilt disease. And if you’re like me, all this talk of Oak Wilt has you feeling scared to prune your Oak trees at all.
Don’t be afraid, my friend, it is still safe to prune your Oak trees if you follow a few simple rules.
#1 – Only prune your Oak trees from November 1st through April 1st. Cuts made during the active growing season can attract beetles from up to a mile away. Those beetles (drawn to the scent of the sap exposed at the cut) act as vectors; carrying the Oak Wilt pathogen from infected trees to your tree.
#2 – Keep your Oaks pruned properly. If branches are hanging low over a sidewalk or driveway, the chance of damage to those branches is much higher. Avoiding any injuries to your tree will give it the best chance to avoid infection spread by beetles.
#3 – Use latex paint to protect cuts made during the growing season. If you have to prune your tree due to emergency circumstances during the growing season (April 1st through November 1st), you will need to seal off the wound with some latex paint. It will slow the growth of the wound wood a bit, but this is a better option than risking infection by those pesky beetles. Latex paint is a better option than pruning sealer which contains asphalt and petroleum products which are toxic to plants and can drastically slow the proper healing of the would.
#4 – Sanitize pruning tools in between Oak trees. When pruning your Oak trees, it is good practice to sanitize your tools (hand saws, hand pruners, etc.) with rubbing alcohol. This only really needs to be done in between Oak trees. It will ensure that you don’t accidentally infect your trees if you are pruning more than one.
#5 – Plant new Oaks a minimum of 100 feet away from any other Oak trees. It is believed that 90% of Oak Wilt infections happen through root contact and shared water at the root level. If the trees aren’t close enough to share water, they can’t infect each other underground.
#6 – Trench around Oaks that are suspected to be infected. If you have a tree or trees that are showing signs of Oak Wilt, send off a sample to be tested immediately. If you have no other Oak trees nearby there is really nothing else to be done. But if you do have Oaks that are near the possibly infected tree and #1 – those trees don’t show any symptoms of the infection; and #2 – those trees are closer than 100 feet to the possibly infected tree/s; you will need to dig a trench between them. This trench should be at least 48 inches deep and 100 feet from the infected tree/s and should be back filled immediately. What this will do is cut off any possibility of root contact and prevent the spread of infection by root contact.
#7 – Encapsulating fire wood OR burning firewood immediately. If you have Oaks that have already been killed by Oak Wilt, you must also have a pile of firewood. As you already know, beetles are attracted to the scent of the sap when Oak trees are cut or wounded. To prevent beetles from spreading Oak Wilt from your Oak firewood to healthy Oak trees, you must cover the wood entirely with plastic. This also means creating a barrier between the wood pile and the ground. The wood should be completely encapsulated to cut off the beetles. Clear or black plastic tarps work the best since they will heat up significantly and kill the pathogen.
Tree pruning is so important to maintain healthy growth and to guide our trees into longevity. If you do the pruning work yourself, I’ve linked my favorite tools for you below. If you are unsure about pruning, I’d advise you to hire a tree professional to do the work or to ask a knowledgeable friend to help you. I’ve found that pruning trees with others is extremely helpful and I usually learn something new.
Join me on Instagram @liquidambar_girl
Link to my Etsy shop, Matilda and Clementine where I sell rare and collectable houseplants.
If this article was helpful to you, make sure to follow this blog. Simply head to the bottom of the Home page of this website, click the Subscribe button and type in your email address. Sharing and liking these articles is also very helpful to us. Thanks for reading!
Planty friends – Feel free to use these links to the products that I use to prune my own trees. I receive a small percentage of any sales through these links, so feel free not to use them if that bothers you.
Felco F6 Hand Pruners (I use these when my hands begin to tire. They are smaller than F2 pruners and perfect for people with smaller hands.) https://amzn.to/36vk6xU
Classic PRO Hand Pruners (These are a more affordable version of the Felco pruners) https://amzn.to/3N865aC
8″ Curved Folding Pruning Saw (This saw cuts through wood like butter.) https://amzn.to/3NL9tbr
The Florida Ghost is one of my top five favorite houseplants. Their leaf shape is one of the most interesting of the Philodendrons; straight out of a jungle. Their most exciting quality, in my opinion, is the bright white color of the new leaves. They contrast so nicely from the green of the mature leaves.
If you look at the white leaves upside down, they are even shaped like a ghost.
If you are new to the Florida Ghost, this article should give you some guidance in caring for them. We will discuss; watering, light, best location in the house, temperature, fertilizer, humidity, flowers, insects, diseases, pruning, propagation and toxicity. If you would like printable care sheets for the Florida Ghost, I sell them in my Etsy shop.
The scientific name of the Florida Ghost is Philodendron pedatum ‘Florida Ghost’. It is most commonly called the Florida Ghost or Philodendron ‘Florida Ghost’ by plant collectors.
As the name suggests, Philodendron ‘Florida Ghost’ can be found in nature in North America. It also has origins in Central and South America which gives us some ideas about how to care for it.
Watering – Water deeply but only once the soil has dried out in the top two inches of the pot. Use your finger or a moisture meter to check the moistness of the soil. I water my plants at the kitchen sink so I can use the sprayer nozzle to moisten the soil until water drains out the bottom of the pot. Allow all excess water to drain out of the pot. It would help to have your Ghost planted in a fast-draining potting mix.
Light requirements – Bright indirect light is necessary to keep your Florida Ghost looking tip top. You can tell if your plant is getting enough light just by looking at the new growth. If the new leaves are coming in looking more mint colored than a bright white (see photo below), your plant needs a brighter location in the house. If you don’t have appropriate lighting, grow lights are also a great option.
As the new leaves begin to age, they take on the loveliest minty green color before deepening to their mature green color.
Best Location in the House – If you are able to give your Philodendron ‘Florida Ghost’ a spot in an East facing window, it will thrive. It would also do well pulled a few feet back from a West or South facing window.
Temperature requirements – Like most houseplants, the the Florida Ghost will live happily in the same temperatures that we humans like to live in.
Fertilizer – Dilute fertilizer by half. I believe that if my plants are actively growing, they need to be given fertilizer, even during the winter. If you don’t believe in fertilizing during the winter months, try offering fertilizer from the beginning of March through the fall and then give the plant a break from fertilizer during the winter.
Humidity – Offering humidity levels of 50% – 70% will give you the healthiest growth.
Flowers – Philodendrons can produce flowers, but generally only when the plant is more than 15 years old.
Insects – In my own experience, Philodendrons don’t seem to fall victim to pests too frequently. In fact, my Philodendrons usually end up with pest issues because of nearby infested plants. Of course, pests are always possible on indoor plants. Some potential pests could be spider mites, mealy bugs, aphids, thrips, scale, fungus gnats and white flies.
The nice thing about Philodendron ‘Florida Ghost’ is that it has nice large leaves that are easy to check for pests and not difficult to clean (preventatively).
Pruning – Pruning your Florida Ghost will be necessary. These plants are climbers like many Philodendrons and so pruning to keep them under control will be inevitable. It is also important to remove any dead or damaged leaves to keep your plant happy.
Propagation – The Florida Ghost propagates by stem cuttings.
Toxicity – All parts of the Philodendron ‘Florida Ghost’ are considered to be toxic to dogs, cats and humans. Like most (all?) Aroids, the Florida Ghost has small crystalized minerals that can cause swelling in the throat, tongue and lips; vomiting and difficulty swallowing.
If you have children or pets that might try to chew on or touch your Florida Ghost, my advice is to keep this plant out of their reach.
Link to my Etsy shop, Matilda and Clementine where I sell many different collector houseplants including the Philodendron ‘Florida Ghost’.
If this article was helpful to you, make sure to follow our blog. Simply head to the bottom of the Home page of this website, click the Subscribe button and type in your email address. Sharing and liking these articles is also very helpful to us. Thanks for reading!
Planty friends – Feel free to use these links to the products that I use for my houseplants. I receive a small percentage of any sales through these links, so feel free not to use them if that bothers you.
Full disclosure – the last four product links will be much cheaper if you can find them in your local garden center. I’ve put them here so that you can see what they are called and what they look like, but I’d advise that you buy from these links only as a last resort.
Every year I look forward to spring with excitement and hope. I was trying for the smell of freshly mown grass with this diffuser recipe. I really hope you enjoy it too!
Link to my Etsy shop, Matilda and Clementine where I sell many different collector houseplants.
If this article was helpful to you, make sure to follow our blog. Simply head to the bottom of the Home page of this website, click the Subscribe button and type in your email address. Sharing and liking these articles is also very helpful to us. Thanks for reading!
Planty friends – Feel free to use these links to the products that I use for my houseplants. I receive a small percentage of any sales through these links, so feel free not to use them if that bothers you.
Full disclosure – the last four product links will be much cheaper if you can find them in your local garden center. I’ve put them here so that you can see what they are called and what they look like, but I’d advise that you buy from these links only as a last resort.
The Raven ZZ plant is gaining popularity with houseplant collectors and it’s easy to see why. They have beautiful black leaves and stems except for the new growth which comes in a bright chartreuse color. They contrast nicely with other plant foliage which is great if you are a plant collector or they look beautiful by themselves as a statement plant.
The ZZ plant has a lovely structural shape that makes it interesting to look at all by itself or paired with your other favorite plants.
If you are new to the Raven ZZ, this article should give you some guidance in caring for them. We will discuss; watering, light, best location in the house, temperature, fertilizer, humidity, flowers, insects, diseases, pruning, propagation and toxicity.
The scientific name of the Raven ZZ plant is Zamioculas zamiifolia ‘Dowon’. It is most commonly called the Raven ZZ or ZZ ‘Raven’ by plant collectors.
ZZ plants are endemic to East and South Africa which tells us how to care for them. ZZ plants store water in their stems and in large rhizomes that look similar to small potatoes. Their ability to store so much water in their stems and roots lets us know that they are accustomed to droughts in nature. Our care should mimic the ZZ’s natural habitat if we want it to thrive in our homes.
Watering – Water deeply but only once the soil has dried out in the pot. I make sure that the potting mix has dried out down several inches before I even consider watering my ZZ plants. You can check the moistness of soil with your finger or with a moisture meter. Once I know my plant is dried out, I take it to the sink and use the sprayer nozzle to moisten the soil until water drains out the bottom of the pot. (Drainage holes in the planter are a must for the ZZ plant.) Make sure to provide it a fast-draining potting mix and let all excess water drain out of the pot after watering.
Light requirements – Medium to bright light is what I recommend for ZZ plants even though that is not what any other website or blog will tell you. Unfortunately, ZZ plants have been marketed for years as only requiring low light. It is certainly true that they can live in low light. But if you want a plant that grows and thrives, you will have to offer more than low light levels. If your plant is stalled in its growth, it needs a brighter location in the house.
Best Location in the House – If you are able to give your Raven ZZ a spot in an East facing window, it will thrive. I have also grown them in a North facing window, fairly successfully, but they really do want more light if possible. I haven’t grown one in a West facing window personally, but I’d imagine that a ZZ would do very well in a West window.
Temperature requirements – Like most houseplants, the Raven ZZ will live happily in the same temperatures that we humans like to live in.
Fertilizer – Dilute fertilizer by half. I believe that if my plants are actively growing, they need to be given fertilizer. Even if that happens to be during the winter. If you don’t believe in fertilizer in the winter, try offering fertilizer from the beginning of March through the fall and then give the plant a break from fertilizer during the winter.
New growth on the ZZ ‘Raven’ comes in a bright chartreuse in contrast to its mature leaves which are a deep glossy black.
Humidity – Normal household humidity levels are completely appropriate.
Flowers – ZZ plants do produce flowers, but not very commonly. Their flowers are reminiscent of a Peace Lily’s bloom.
Insects – I brought home some spider mites on three Raven ZZ plants at the beginning of 2020. (Which is why I always preach that we should examine our plants carefully before bringing them into our home. Why didn’t I follow my own advice, you may wonder? We may never know…) I had to isolate the plants and treat them but after a few weeks the mites were gone.
It seems that ZZ plants are not too likely to have pest issues. Of course, insects are always a possibility on our indoor plants. Some of the pests you may experience on your ZZ plants are mealy bugs, aphids, scale, white flies, fungus gnats or spider mites. And most likely, the “plague” will have spread from a nearby infested plant.
Pruning – Pruning ZZ plants is almost completely unnecessary. Simply remove any dead or damaged leaves by hand to keep your plant clean and it should be happy.
Propagation – The Raven ZZ propagates just like regular ZZ plants by leaves, stem cuttings and by pups (small plantlets growing from the “mother” plant). However, the Raven ZZ is a patented plant and cannot legally be propagated by anyone other than Costa Farms.
Toxicity – All parts of the Raven ZZ plant are considered to be toxic to dogs, cats and humans. Like most (all?) Aroids, ZZ plants have small crystalized minerals that can cause swelling in the throat, tongue and lips, difficulty swallowing and vomiting.
If you have children or pets that may be interested in your ZZ plant, my advice is to keep this plant out of their reach.
Link to my Etsy shop, Matilda and Clementine where I sell many different collector houseplants.
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Planty friends – Feel free to use these links to the products that I use for my houseplants. I receive a small percentage of any sales through these links, so feel free not to use them if that bothers you.
Full disclosure – the last four product links will be much cheaper if you can find them in your local garden center. I’ve put them here so that you can see what they are called and what they look like, but I’d advise that you buy from these links only as a last resort.
Liquidambar Girl Gardening 